Refinishing a CU22 in Nitro?

[BBQLS1]

I've got two small dinks in the finish of my CU22. They are hardly noticable, but I'm thinking about having the guitar refinished and maybe in Nitro.

Thoughts?

[Taller]

Since you're asking for my thoughts, I'd say it's a waste of time and money.

Nothing would be gained by the nitro refin and you'll only ding it again anyway.

Love it. Play it. Ding it.
Hell, some people pay money for other people to ding their guitars, so you're way ahead of the game!:D

[lookslikemeband]

If you're wanting to refinish it because of a color change - that's one thing. But get it professionally done.

If you're wanting to refin to keep it pristine looking, then you'll be doing the exact opposite. Resale value will sink like a Lead Zeppelin.

Now - I don't often mess with the Poly on most PRSi - I've only refinished a couple of them, but from what I understand, a dab of superglue will effectively "melt" the poly, and sink in nicely.

Finely sand up to 2000 grit wet in the area - and buff.

Then play the bejeezus out of it, and ding it again!!!




I was restringing one of mine yesterday and I couldn't believe how many li'l dents I found in it. CHARACTER BABEEEEE!!!!

[Jmilliondead]

every dent's got it's lil story behind it..


the ones that don't...blame on alcohol

[Bruce O'Donnell]

I've only refinished a couple of them, but from what I understand, a dab of superglue will effectively "melt" the poly, and sink in nicely.
Unfortunately it doesn't work that way. Lacquer (and some shellacs) blend when repaired because the solvents in the lacquer dissolve the hardened lacquer around the ding. Result is a seemless fix. Poly (ester and urethane) doesn't - once it is dry the solvents in liquid poly or superglue have no effect on it. If you have a relatively clean edge chip, the free flowing (like water) superglue will bond tightly to the chipped edge and you can get a pretty good repair, but you can still see the edge of the poly when viewed at an angle. The danger with superglue is that it's much harder than poly clearcoat, and it's easy to sand away the surrounding clearcoat. For chips on a single surface I set the guitar up so the chip is level and use the water-thick superglue and build up the repair in layers. For dings on two surfaces (like the edge) I use the gel superglue, applied with a needle.

I would also stay away from refinishing a poly guitar in nitro. Your options for removing the poly are sanding or chemical strip. Sanding is labor intensive, so unless you do it yourself it's going to cost $$. To chemically strip poly you have to use methyl ethyl ketone, which is nasty, nasty stuff, and requires careful prep to ensure there's no chemical residues left before you shoot the lacquer. I've heard (and seen) stories of the clearcoat turning cloudy (can also happen if humidity is hight) to never drying.