Trem Height?

[Doug Lewis]

Out of inspiration from another thread on the board, I've decided to do a setup on my CU24. I'm proud to say that I'm happy with the results so far. I was curious what your bridge height is off the guitar? The instructions say it should be level at 1/16" Mine was almost twice that when I started, but I don't think I'll be able to get it that low without strings starting to buzz, particularly the low E string.

[jbird]

I've never really measured mine, I just make sure that it is floating level to the body. I believe the overall height is set at the factory with the knife edge screws, which I don't mess with! Good Luck with your set-up!

[Dan Desy]

I saw this post a few days ago, and had no value to really add to the topic.

But I've been thinking about it since... I have (as if you didn't now) a Custom 24 and a SinglecutTrem. Both great guitars. but the trem on the SCT doesn't have the range of the one on the Custom.

First of all, it doesn't pull up as much. That wasn't a huge deal, but it also doesn't dive as much. That's what really bugged me. The range of "arm/bridge travel" is just much less than the Custom.

So could that be because the bridge is close to the body? I haven't measured them, but I will sure take a look. But I'm guessing that if I raise the bridge, I could fix that.

Any thoughts?

[Doug Lewis]

Well I already wrote a big long reply to this, and somehow lost it, so I'll write a more concise one :)

Dan, we've talked before on here about setting the bridge so there's 1-1/2 steps of pull up. It's also said it should be set so there's 1/16" between the bridge and the guitar. I've dropped mine from 1/8" to aprox 3/32", but doubt I can make it to 1/16". I'm getting exactly 1-1/2 steps before the bridge bottoms out. As for dives I would think the only thing stopping you would be the trem arm itself? Does it have the same bend as the 24's arm?

[Dan Desy]

Well I already wrote a big long reply to this, and somehow lost it, so I'll write a more concise one :)

Dan, we've talked before on here about setting the bridge so there's 1-1/2 steps of pull up. It's also said it should be set so there's 1/16" between the bridge and the guitar. I've dropped mine from 1/8" to aprox 3/32", but doubt I can make it to 1/16". I'm getting exactly 1-1/2 steps before the bridge bottoms out. As for dives I would think the only thing stopping you would be the trem arm itself? Does it have the same bend as the 24's arm?
I'll have to check the arm. When you say 1 1/2 step, which string are you talking about?

[Doug Lewis]

Taken from the PRS FAQ sheet on their website: http://www.prsguitars.com/faq/index.html#21

Tuning/Set-up Hints for the PRS Tremolo System

If the guitar is returning sharp after using the tremolo arm, put a little lightweight machine oil under the head of each screw (do not loosen the screws). This will effectively oil the knife-edge of the tremolo.

The correct adjustment of the six brass screws, which act as a pivot and anchor the tremolo system, is level with each other so the bridge floats 1/16” off the body. These 6 screws are factory adjusted and you really should not have to adjust them at all. If it becomes necessary to adjust the 6 notched screws, make sure the guitar is detuned or you will ruin the knife-edge. Adjust the screws incrementally so the notches under the screw heads are fitted with the corresponding hole in the bridge. These holes serve as the knife-edge on which the tremolo unit rocks. Again, this is a very tricky adjustment and could ruin the knife-edge if done improperly.

The Bridge saddles should be low in the range of adjustment to keep the action low and leverage of the bridge in good working order. They should be adjusted so that the height of the string at the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string is 2/32”.

If the tremolo bridge is not floating 1/16” off the body, remove the tremolo back plate. Adjust the claw screws about 1/4 turn at a time until the bridge floats perpendicular to and about 1/16th off the body. Tune to pitch and check, re-adjust until the bridge sits properly. When the tremolo is adjusted properly and the guitar is in tune, the tremolo arm will raise the low E string pitch to F#: no more, no less.

[Dan Desy]

Taken from the PRS FAQ sheet on their website: http://www.prsguitars.com/faq/index.html#21

Tuning/Set-up Hints for the PRS Tremolo System

If the guitar is returning sharp after using the tremolo arm, put a little lightweight machine oil under the head of each screw (do not loosen the screws). This will effectively oil the knife-edge of the tremolo.

The correct adjustment of the six brass screws, which act as a pivot and anchor the tremolo system, is level with each other so the bridge floats 1/16” off the body. These 6 screws are factory adjusted and you really should not have to adjust them at all. If it becomes necessary to adjust the 6 notched screws, make sure the guitar is detuned or you will ruin the knife-edge. Adjust the screws incrementally so the notches under the screw heads are fitted with the corresponding hole in the bridge. These holes serve as the knife-edge on which the tremolo unit rocks. Again, this is a very tricky adjustment and could ruin the knife-edge if done improperly.

The Bridge saddles should be low in the range of adjustment to keep the action low and leverage of the bridge in good working order. They should be adjusted so that the height of the string at the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string is 2/32”.

If the tremolo bridge is not floating 1/16” off the body, remove the tremolo back plate. Adjust the claw screws about 1/4 turn at a time until the bridge floats perpendicular to and about 1/16th off the body. Tune to pitch and check, re-adjust until the bridge sits properly. When the tremolo is adjusted properly and the guitar is in tune, the tremolo arm will raise the low E string pitch to F#: no more, no less.

So that's a whole step on the low E - and probably about a half step on the high E.

[Dan Desy]

Well, I finally solved the mystery of the small-range-trem. I had looked at both guitars and bridges, measuring and all, but everything looked pretty similar on them.

Last night, I pulled out both my SC Trem and my Custom - for some reason, since I have them, it's usually one or the other... Anyway, a quick check of the trem arms revelaed that the angle on the SC trem arm has pretty much a rioght angle, whereas the Custom has an angle a little more opened. I put the Custom arm in the SC Trem, and there it was - my range was there. So I tried to fx the SC trem arm, but I'm scared I'll damage it. Maybe I should drop Jim Culen an email...

At least, I know my SC Trem is fine! :dude:

[Dan Desy]

Thanks John. Good advice on the bench vise. I thought about thast, but not wraping the arm in cloth. Great idea, I'll definitely give it a try.

And both my guitars are setup so that the bridge does indeed go forward a little more than "recommended". In my case, I did it by putting on "hybrid" strings (9-46). It gives me a little more "pull-up room". So I wasn't all paranoid about measurements and stuff, I just couldn't figure out why the bridge action, or range, on both guitar was so different.

Mystery solved. Thanks for the advice.